Undercover Spring 2023 Fashion Show Review

0

Review of the Undercover Spring 2023 fashion show

The light side after the dark side

By Dao Tran

The slashes in the clothes not only conveyed the punk rebellion inherent in the brand’s DNA, but perhaps because they were softened and embellished with transparent ruffles or flowers, it could also be seen as the resilience of the brand. nature, the way flowers grow through cracks in the sidewalk. , a metaphor for our own resilience in the face of the pandemic.

This season is the first back in Paris for many Japanese brands, including Jun Takahashi’s Undercover. Perhaps if its last menswear season was called The Dark Side of the Bright Side, this collection could be seen as the Bright Side after the Dark Side. The models had tears in their eyes, the show took place in the sacred space of the American Cathedral, the music touched the heart, and the pacing of the show was very deliberate. But the neon yellow opening look shows that we came out strong on the other side.

The slashes in the clothes not only conveyed the punk rebellion inherent in the brand’s DNA, but perhaps because they were softened and embellished with transparent ruffles or flowers, it could also be seen as the resilience of the brand. nature, the way flowers grow through cracks in the sidewalk. , a metaphor for our own resilience in the face of the pandemic.

It’s a gift to be able to create beauty out of broken things, like the studio of an artist I visited who also used a flower to embellish a crack in plaster, or the Japanese art of kintsugi, which uses gold lacquer to repair and elevate broken pottery.

Breaking and putting back together has historically been a strength of Japanese designers and Jun Takahashi is a skilled deconstructionist. The front of house pictures don’t do his back party justice. This bomber jacket or black perfecto are examples of this which resolve into a knot in the back, reminiscent of the subtle art of seduction of geishas in the knot of an obi kimono or the back of the fabric on the neck. There’s the demure and risky push and pull in the skin flash or, in this case, the orange silk lining.

In German, there is an expression “ein schöner Rücken kann auch entzücken”, which literally means that a beautiful back can also be enchanting, like the clothes in this collection.

Printed t-shirts and sweatshirts with wide leg pants and jeans are sure to be a hit. There’s a difference between sportswear and sweatshirts with proper darts or pants with proper pleats – it’s called the silhouette.

Tuxedo shirts, vests, suits and trench coats are all getting the Undercover treatment, signaling a different return to the new normal, with the hybrid office, hybrid events, hybrid lives we lead now.

Last, but certainly the most important, were the puffy dresses that closed the show. Always a protection, a cocooning, but also an “I’m here, hear me roar”. Let’s go!


Share.

About Author

Comments are closed.